Is your door jammed shut or not locking? Is your door hardware damaged or soon to be? We can replace or repair most parts of any uPVC door.

    Common uPVC door problems we fix

    If your uPVC door is giving you trouble, it almost always comes down to a part that can be repaired rather than a door that needs replaced. We carry the most common door parts, so most jobs are sorted in a single visit.

    • Doors that will not lock, or only lock if you lift the handle
    • Dropped or misaligned doors that catch on the frame
    • Faulty, snapped or seized multipoint locking mechanisms
    • Worn hinges and loose or broken handles
    • Letterbox, cylinder and euro barrel replacement
    • Draughts caused by worn or failed weather seals
    • Keys snapping, sticking or turning without engaging anything
    • Misted or cracked glass in the door or the side panel

    Based in Wishaw, we cover Wishaw, Motherwell, Hamilton and the wider Lanarkshire area. For a quick, honest quote call 01698 604 278, message us on WhatsApp, or use our contact form. A photo of the problem is often all we need. And with over 30 years’ experience and a no fuss guarantee on every job, you’re in safe hands: see our 100+ five star reviews.

    Why a uPVC door stops locking

    It helps to know what is actually going on inside the door, because it explains why so many of these faults are cheap to put right.

    Running up the closing edge of your door is a multipoint mechanism: a long strip carrying hooks, rollers or deadbolts at several points along its length. Lifting the handle drives all of those out at once through a gearbox in the middle. Turning the key then locks the gearbox so nothing can be pushed back in. The cylinder, the brass barrel your key goes into, is a separate part that does nothing but control the gearbox.

    Every one of those hooks has to land in a keep, a slotted plate screwed into the frame. If the door moves even three or four millimetres out of position, the hooks start hitting the edges of the keeps instead of dropping into them. That is what you feel as a door that needs lifting or shoving. It is also what kills gearboxes, because the gearbox is being forced to drive hardened steel against hardened steel.

    So the sequence is nearly always the same. The door drops a fraction on its hinges. You start lifting the handle harder. Some months later the gearbox gives up and the door will not lock at all. Caught at stage one it is an adjustment. Caught at stage three it is a new mechanism. That is the single best reason not to live with a stiff door.

    How our uPVC door repairs work

    When you get in touch we’ll ask a couple of quick questions, or you can email or WhatsApp a photo, so we turn up with the right parts. The large majority of door faults, from a door that’s dropped on its hinges to a lock that won’t throw, are fixed in a single visit. If your door uses an older or continental locking system that needs a part ordered in, we’ll fit a temporary fix so your home stays secure and come back the moment it arrives.

    There are two of us and we are the ones who turn up. No subcontractors, no salesman calling ahead of the engineer, and nobody working to a commission target. That matters more on repairs than on anything else, because the whole job depends on somebody being willing to say a thirty pound part will sort it.

    Repair or replace, and why repairing usually wins

    A brand new uPVC door can run to several hundred pounds. In the vast majority of cases the door itself is perfectly sound, it’s a worn hinge, a perished gasket or a failed lock cartridge causing the trouble, and those are inexpensive to put right. A repair restores your security and takes the draught out without the cost, mess and disruption of a full replacement. And we’ll always be straight with you: if a door genuinely is beyond economical repair, we’ll say so plainly rather than sell you a part you don’t need.

    The cases where replacement really is the answer are narrower than people expect. A frame that has been forced or damaged. A slab that has blown or delaminated along the bottom edge. A door so old that the mechanism pattern has not been manufactured for twenty years and no equivalent will retrofit. Or simply wanting something different, in which case our composite doors and uPVC front and back doors pages are the place to start.

    There is a middle option people forget about too. If the door works but looks tired or the panel has taken a knock, a replacement door panel gives you what looks like a new door while the frame, the hinges and the lock all stay exactly where they are.

    The parts we change most

    Euro cylinders. The barrel the key goes into. Changed when a key snaps, when a lock wears to the point of sticking, when keys are lost, or as a security upgrade to an anti snap type. Quick job, and it is also the one that gets you new keys without touching anything else.

    Multipoint gearboxes. The heart of the mechanism. Replaced when the handle goes gritty, when it works nine times out of ten, or when it fails outright. Usually replaceable on its own without changing the whole strip, provided the pattern is still available.

    Hinges. Replaced when they are worn past the point where adjustment can bring the door back into line. Composite and heavier doors go through hinges faster because of the weight they are carrying.

    Handles and spindles. The commonest visible failure. Screw centres and spindle length vary between makes, which is why the one from the DIY shed often does not fit.

    Keeps and strike plates. The parts in the frame the hooks land in. Often the actual fix when a door has been catching for years.

    Gaskets and weather seals. The rubber that stops the draught and the rain. Cheap, and the single most common cause of a cold hallway.

    Letterplates, knockers and numerals. Cosmetic and functional. A perished letterplate brush is a surprising amount of a draught problem.

    Sealed glass units. When the glass in the door has misted between the panes. The unit comes out, a new one goes in, the door stays put. More on that in misted double glazing and on our glass unit replacement page.

    What a door repair costs

    Door jobs are priced on the part and the time, not from a menu. A handle, a euro cylinder, a keep or a set of gaskets is at the small end. A full multipoint gearbox is the dearer end, and it is still a fraction of the price of a new door. You get the figure before we start, there is no call out charge, and if the door is genuinely past sensible repair we will say so rather than charge you to find that out. Our repair prices page sets out what you do and do not pay for.

    What moves the number, in rough order of how much it moves it: which part has failed, whether the mechanism is a current pattern or something long discontinued, whether any glass is involved and what size and type it is, and whether the frame is staying put. Sealed unit replacements start from £75 for a hopper sized pane, and that is the one starting price we publish, because everything else genuinely does depend on the job in front of us. There is a fuller breakdown in what uPVC door repairs cost.

    Doors we work on

    uPVC doors of every age, composite doors, aluminium doors, patio doors, French doors and bi-fold doors, and the common doors on tenement closes and factored blocks. If it opens, closes and locks, we have most likely had one apart. There is more detail in our guide to composite door repairs, and patio and French door trouble is covered on our patio, French and sliding door repairs page and in French doors that will not close.

    If the door works but everything about it feels tired, a full door service is often better value than fixing one fault at a time. Hinges reset, keeps realigned, compression set properly, moving parts lubricated and seals checked, all in one visit.

    Security comes with the repair

    A door that will not lock properly is a security problem before it is an inconvenience. While we are in fixing a lock we will tell you whether the cylinder fitted is a snap resistant one or the older type that can be defeated in under a minute. Upgrading a cylinder is a small job and well worth doing. Is your uPVC door lock actually secure explains what to look for, and how to measure a euro cylinder if you want to check your own.

    One quick test you can do standing at your own front door: look at how far the cylinder protrudes past the handle plate. If it sticks out more than two or three millimetres, it is giving somebody something to grip, and that is worth mentioning when you ring us.

    Helping us get it right first time

    Nobody wants two visits, so a couple of details make a real difference. A photo of the whole door tells us the type and age. A close up of the handle and lock tells us the hardware. And if you can open the door and read the make and model stamped along the edge of the locking strip, that is the single most useful thing you can send us, because it tells us which gearbox to bring.

    If the door is currently shut and will not open, say so when you call. That changes what we bring and how quickly we come.

    Where we cover

    Wishaw is home, and we work out from there across Motherwell, Bellshill, Hamilton, Coatbridge and Airdrie, plus Glasgow, East Kilbride, Carluke, Lanark and Livingston. The full list is on areas we cover.

    Questions we get asked about door repairs

    My door only locks if I lift the handle hard

    That is the classic sign of a door that has dropped on its hinges, so the locking points no longer meet the keeps squarely. Left alone it will eventually break the gearbox, which turns a small adjustment into a bigger bill. See a door that will not lock without lifting the handle and adjusting a dropped uPVC door.

    The key turns but nothing happens

    Usually a failed gearbox inside the multipoint strip. The cylinder is doing its job, the mechanism behind it is not. It is a replaceable part, not a reason for a new door. More in when the key will not turn in a uPVC door.

    The door is fine in winter and sticks in summer

    Heat expansion. uPVC grows a little in strong sun, and a door that was only just clearing its frame in January will bind in July. It is adjustable. See a uPVC door that will not lock in the heat.

    My handle has snapped or spins freely

    Two different faults. A snapped handle is usually metal fatigue in the casting, covered in a snapped uPVC door handle. A handle that spins without doing anything is generally a broken spindle or spring cassette, covered in a door handle spinning loose. Both are replaceable parts.

    My key has snapped off in the lock

    Often the broken piece can be extracted and the cylinder saved, as long as nobody has been at it with pliers or superglue first. See a broken key in a door lock. If you cannot get in at all, locked out of your uPVC door sets out the realistic options.

    There is a howling draught round the door

    Nearly always a perished weather seal or a compression setting that has drifted, and both are cheap. Occasionally it is the letterplate brush. A draughty front door goes through how to find it.

    Do I actually need a new door?

    Rarely. Frames and slabs outlast the moving parts by years. Unless the frame itself is damaged or the door has been forced, a repair or a replacement door panel gets you the same result for a lot less.

    If you are local to us, our page on uPVC windows and doors in Wishaw covers doors alongside everything else we work on here.

    Doors are half of what we do, and there is a lot more to it than repairs. Our doors in Wishaw page pulls the whole lot together in one place: locks and cylinders, hinges, panels, glass, and the difference between composite and uPVC when it is time to replace.

    If there is something you want to check before booking, the frequently asked questions page covers most of it, and our full list of services shows everything else we do.

    Call 01698 604 278 or send us a photo on WhatsApp for a free quote on your door repair.